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Used Fluke Meters

The meter that electricians and techs trust with their lives, which is why it's the most-faked test instrument on eBay. A genuine used Fluke is a great buy. Verifying "genuine" is the whole job.

📈 Current listings pulled: $50 – $495 • Updated September 5, 2026

The 87V is the industrial standard and holds value like a Snap-on ratchet. The 117 (electrical, non-contact voltage), 115, 175/177/179 are the common alternatives. Check the fuses, the rotary switch, and the display segments.

376 FC (true-RMS with iFlex), 325/324/323, 902 FC (HVAC). The jaw should close fully and the hinge shouldn't be loose. Check the leads — Fluke TL75 leads are a hidden cost if missing.

T5-600, T5-1000, T6-600, T6-1000 (FieldSense, non-contact voltage and current). Simple instruments that either work or don't. Check the fork and leads.

Insulation & Specialty

All current listings on eBay →

1587 FC insulation multimeter, 1507/1503 insulation testers, ProcessMeters (789), ScopeMeters. Higher-value used; calibration status matters more here than anywhere.

Why Fluke, and what "used" means for a meter

Fluke — Everett, Washington, now part of Fortive — makes the meters that professionals standardize on, because the safety ratings are real, the input protection is real, and the things last for decades. An 87V bought in 2005 works the same today. That's the case for buying used: a meter doesn't wear like a ratchet does.

The complication is that "used Fluke" is a market with two problems: counterfeits, which are genuinely dangerous because a fake meter's input protection is fiction; and calibration, which matters if you're using the meter for work that has to be right. Both are solvable. Neither is optional.

The models

ModelWhat it isUsed notes
87VIndustrial true-RMS DMMThe standard. Limited lifetime warranty on the original owner. Holds value.
117 / 115Electrician's DMM (117 has non-contact voltage)Most-faked Fluke model. Extra scrutiny.
175 / 177 / 179General true-RMS DMMs179 has temperature. Solid used buys.
101 / 106 / 107 / 15B / 17BBudget / Asia-market DMMsHeavily counterfeited. The 15B/17B fakes are everywhere.
376 FC / 375 / 374True-RMS clamp metersFC = Fluke Connect wireless. Check iFlex probe included on 376.
323 / 324 / 325Compact clamp metersCommon, cheap used, rarely faked.
T5 / T6Electrical testersT6 FieldSense measures without leads. Simple, durable.
1587 FC / 1507Insulation multimeter / testerCalibration is critical.
789ProcessMeter (DMM + loop calibrator)High value; verify cal.

Spotting fakes

Counterfeit Flukes come mostly from China and target the 15B, 17B, 117, and 101/106 — models with high volume and simple cases. The fakes look right and measure voltage, which is what makes them dangerous: their input protection, CAT rating, and fuses are not what the label claims. Tells:

  • Price. A "new" 117 at a third of retail is fake. Every time.
  • Fuses. Genuine Flukes use specific high-rupture-capacity (HRC) fuses — on an 87V, the 11A/1000V and 440mA/1000V ceramic fuses. Ask for a photo of the fuse compartment. Glass fuses or generic ceramic ones mean fake or dangerously repaired.
  • Serial number and label. Genuine meters have a crisp rear label with serial and CAT ratings. Fakes have blurry labels, wrong fonts, or serials that don't match Fluke's format.
  • Rotary switch feel. Genuine Fluke switches are firm with distinct detents. Fakes are loose or gritty.
  • Input jack shutters. On models that have them, the shutter mechanism is precise. Fakes often lack it or it's crude.
  • Holster and case. Genuine holsters fit exactly and the yellow is consistent. Fakes are slightly off in color and fit.
  • Seller. Overseas, all-new inventory, dozens of the same model.

Buy from sellers who are obviously clearing out a real electrician's or tech's gear — worn holster, scuffed case, original leads, maybe a calibration sticker. That's the safe profile.

Calibration

If the meter is for your own troubleshooting, a genuine used Fluke that reads correctly against a known reference is fine as-is. If it's for work where readings are documented — commissioning, compliance, anything with a sign-off — you need a calibration certificate, and a used meter will need one. Budget for a cal lab. It's not expensive relative to the meter, but it's not free, and a "recently calibrated" claim in a listing means nothing without the cert.

What to inspect

  • Fuse compartment photo. Correct HRC fuses present.
  • Display. All segments light on power-up; no fading or dead segments. LCD damage is a real repair.
  • Battery compartment. No corrosion. Leaked batteries kill meters.
  • Rotary switch. Every position engages; the meter responds in each.
  • Input jacks. Clean, tight, shutters (if any) work.
  • Leads. Included? Fluke leads are a real cost. Check the insulation on them too.
  • Reads correctly on a known voltage. Ask the seller to show a reading on a 120V outlet or a 9V battery.

Where the value is

The 175/177/179 series and the compact clamp meters (323/324/325) — excellent, common, not faked much, and priced reasonably because everyone searches for the 87V. Genuine used 87Vs are a fine buy too; you just pay for the name. The worst value is any budget-model "Fluke" from an unknown seller.

Common questions about used Fluke

How do I know a used Fluke is real?

Correct HRC fuses in the fuse compartment, crisp rear label with a properly-formatted serial, firm rotary switch, and a seller who is clearly selling real used gear. A price far below retail on a "new" meter is the strongest tell that it's fake.

Does a used Fluke need calibration?

For personal troubleshooting, not necessarily — verify it reads correctly against a known reference. For documented or compliance work, yes, and a listing's "recently calibrated" claim means nothing without the certificate.

Is the Fluke warranty transferable?

No. The 87V's limited lifetime warranty and the 3-year warranty on most other models apply to the original purchaser. Fluke will still service used meters for a fee.

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